Why a Mushroom Bloody Mary Is the Thing Your Holiday Is Missing

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Photo: Laura Murray / Courtesy of Smallhold

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As generations gather around the table for the holiday season, this year it’s likely even your older relatives will have gleaned that mushrooms are trending. Fungus conversation starters are endless: Consider Rodarte’s Spring 2022 show-closing mushroom dress (more recently worn by Lorde), or the study that was published in Nature earlier this month, indicating that microdosing psilocybin can lower anxiety and depression. Family members who are less concerned with the sartorial or psychedelic will appreciate a new cookbook that puts mushrooms center stage in both culinary creations and cocktails.

Dubbed Mushrooms in the Middle, the spiral-bound collection of recipes was released by Smallhold, a mushroom farm whose mission is to redefine the meaning of “locally grown.” They install mini-farms in restaurants and grocery stores, providing each place with pounds of fresh produce. When New York went into lockdown, they began delivering grow kits to households, one-upping their own concept. Come 2021, they wondered how to help even more people eat and love mushrooms, and the idea for a cookbook was born.

Smallhold co-founders Andrew Carter and Adam DeMartino called on editor Aliza Abarbanel to curate recipes from their community of chefs and fungi fans. They asked that all submissions be vegetarian, with mushrooms as “the main flavor profile, the main attraction,” Abarbanel says. Every meal is covered, from breakfast—Chef Tara Thomas’s vegan royal trumpet chorizo hash—to dessert, in the form of Natasha Li Pickowicz’s salted caramel-shiitake mousse. 

“What I really like about this cookbook is that it shows you that you can do so many different things with mushrooms. You can glaze them, you can fry them, you can use them to make a really delicious mousse,” Abarbanel says. 

Photo: Courtesy of Smallhold

If you haven’t yet been compelled by the right saucy bite of Blue Oyster or crispy Lion’s Mane, the sustainability aspects of Kingdom Fungi should sway you: “Mushrooms can be grown year-round without much space, with a substantially lower carbon footprint and water use than meat or eggs, or even tofu,” Abarbanel explains. “So it's not just that mushrooms are a dream to cook with and being grown in new ways, but that they're kind to the planet too.”

Abarbanel’s own contribution to the cookbook might be the simplest, while also serving as the perfect post-holiday pick-me-up: A shiitake Bloody Mary. In this case, the mushrooms offer the same “funky, earthy, savory quality” that Worcestershire sauce or anchovies provide in a non-vegan version. Learn how to make it—and bring the “mushrooms are trending” conversation full circle—below:

Shiitake Bloody Mary

SERVES 1, PLUS EXTRA SHIITAKE VODKA

Half a liter of vodka 

15 g dried shiitakes (approx. 5) 

4 ounces tomato juice (preferably Sacramento) 

1 tsp. fresh grated ginger 

2 Tbsp. lemon juice 

1/4 tsp. kosher salt 

10 good cranks of freshly ground pepper 

1/4 tsp. Tabasco

For serving: Salt, gochugaru, celery hearts, lemon wedges, pickled olives, tiny mushrooms (optional)

Special equipment: Cocktail shaker

MAKE THE SHIITAKE VODKA In a non-reactive container with a lid, soak 15 g dried shiitakes with half a liter of vodka for 12 hours. Strain, using a spoon to push as much liquid as possible out of the mushrooms, and store shiitake vodka in fridge until ready to use.

MAKE THE BLOODY MARY Shake tomato juice, grated ginger, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and Tabasco in a small quart container until mixed well. Pour into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Add one shot of shiitake vodka and give it ten good shakes, then strain into a highball glass filled with ice cubes and rimmed with chile-salt. Garnish with celery hearts, lemon wedges, and skewered mushrooms and/or pickled olives.

If you’re feeling it, top with Pacifico or your favorite light beer for a refreshing finish.

DO AHEAD: Shiitake vodka can be kept in the fridge for a year.

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